Day Trip to Ronda
Historic Ronda, a hill town perched high on an inland plateau created by the 100 metre high fissure of El Tajo gorge, is a popular day trip destination for Marbella's semi-permanent residents, whenever they come to stay in their holiday homes. Ronda's ancient narrow and winding streets and white-washed houses make such a change from Marbella's modern apartment blocks and villas, it's like stepping back in time.
A Walking Tour of Ronda
Located just an hour north of the Costa del Sol, Ronda is easily reached with a rental car, yet it feels as if one is entering a different world. Enter the town via the majestic Puente Nuevo, the New Bridge, and you'll feel like an 18th century aristocrat on a Grand Tour. According to local legend, the bridge's architect, Martin de Aldehuela, fell to his death while trying to engrave the date of the bridge's completion (1793) on the side of the bridge.
The first street to your left, when you leave the bridge, leads to the Casa del Rey Moro, an 18th century house reputedly built on the remains of an Islamic palace. Although the house is closed to the public, its magnificent cliff-top gardens are open. From here visitors with a head for heights and sufficient stamina can descend 200 steps to reach the bottom of the gorge. This staircase was hewn into the rock face during Islamic times, making those descending it feel like a modern-day Indiana Jones about to discover an Aladdin's cave of treasures.
Southeast of the New Bridge lies the Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, where the Iglesia de Santa Maria La Mayor was erected on the site of an Islamic mosque. As big and elaborately adorned as a cathedral, Ronda's main church is open until 8.00 pm during the summer months.
Close by, in the Calle de Armiñán 65 is the entertaining Museo del Bandolero, a small museum dedicated to the highway robbers and bandits Andalusia was infamous for in the 19th century. If you don't fancy coming face to face with highway robbers and their pistols, descend the long flight of stairs next to the museum, which will take you to an imposing stretch of the old city's walled fortifications.
The path leads eventually to the horseshoe arches of the 13th and 14th century Arabic Baths (Baños Árabes), which are the best preserved Islamic baths on the entire Iberian Peninsula. At Calle Virgen de la Paz lies one of the oldest bull rings in Spain, the Plaza de Toros, which opened in 1785 and has hosted some of the most celebrated bullfights in history. It is surprisingly elegant, bearing in mind the wholesale slaughter of innocent beasts that goes on here.
Eating out in Ronda
If the thought of rare bull meat has given you an appetite, there are several good restaurants in Ronda. Restaurante Tragabuches, located in Calle José Aparico 1, is a chic and modern restaurant renown for its innovative take on old favourites. How about a plate of venison and sweet potatoes or pork trotters with squid and sunflower seeds to set refuel for the rest of your sightseeing tour?
At Bar Restaurant Almocábar in Calle Ruedo Alameda gourmets can sample a good selection of traditional meat and fish dishes and vegetarians can enjoy a large choice of delicious salads.
Staying overnight in Ronda
If you want to explore the hills surrounding Ronda for a few days, there are a couple of hotels that are well worth remembering. Parador de Ronda is a modern marble palace with a terrace that affords wonderful views of the gorge. Hotel Alavera de los Baños is adjacent to the Arab Baths and is a magical place with a Moorish style of decor that is reminiscent of 1001 Arabian Nights. Sit on the patio surrounded by flowers or dip your toes into their pool after a long hot day.
Getting to Ronda
Not everyone fancies hiring a car for their excursions - there is a bus station in Ronda's Plaza Conception Garcia Redondo which connects the town with Malaga and Marbella at least three times a day.